Compensation
The Art of Fitting In
Part Three of Four
Click for Part Two | Part Four

by Anthony Minieri

As originally published in Needle Pointers, February/March '96


Editor's Note:
In our last two issues we featured this in-depth study of compensation. Thank you for your enthusiastic response. This is our third installment. In our next issue we will complete this series with a continuation of Crossed Stitches, Dutch Stitches and Pile-On Stitches.

CONTINUATION OF COMPENSATION FOR OBLIQUE STITCHES

Compensation Against an Oblique Line


With the 6x2 slope of the oblique line and the almost vertical nature of the stitch, you will have the same idea here as compensating against a diagonal line. The only difference is that with the diagonal line you had the full stitch, then an "over 2" compensation, and then an "over 1" compensation. Here there will be 3 "over 2" compensations following by 3 "over 1" compensations. This increase in the number of compensation stitches is due again to the slope of the line.

Compensation Against a Curved Line

Here you will begin the stitch at the top center of the circle, treating the top of the circle as a straight line. On this curve the amount of compensation on each quadrant of the circle should be the same. The only aspect of the stitch that might affect the compensation along the curve would be the slant of the stitch. It would affect the upper right and lower left quadrants. In the upper left quadrant the slant of the stitch would agree with the curve, whereas in the upper right it would intersect the curve.

SANDY'S SLIDE STITCH

This stitch is a combination of oblique stitches and tent stitches. The oblique stitches are 1x3 stitches that slant in the opposite direction from the oblique stitches in the last stitch. The oblique stitch elements line up end to end with the tent stitches, so the oblique stitches drop 1 thread at a time and form a diagonal line.

Compensation Against a Straight Line

Here because the oblique stitch elements are 1x3, which is almost vertical, and have a true diagonal line-up, the compensation will have a regular pattern for each row. As before, the angle will have to change to accommodate the straight line. This small sacrifice will not "ruin" the look of the stitch.

Compensation Against a Diagonal Line

In this case whether you start the pattern with the oblique stitch element or the tent stitch element, as long as you start at the diagonal line, you will have no compensation along the diagonal line.

Compensation Against an Oblique Line

Here as in the Encroaching Gobelin, compensation will be established immediately and develop a regular pattern because the oblique stitches are almost vertical and they move in a diagonal line.

Compensation Agaisnt a Curved line

Since both elements of this stitch pattern have a diagonal lineup, the best place to start this stitch would be at the diagonal section of the circle. The tent stitch part of the pattern is easier to see, so start with that. Place it anywhere on the diagonal section of the curve. There will be a minimum of compensation.

CROSSED STITCHES

This last family of stitches we will discuss is the Crossed family. This family of stitches incorporates many varieties. In this family we will deal with straight, diagonal, and oblique stitch elements, sometimes at the same time. The multiple slants of this family of stitches are an added challenge that adds intrique to this art of compensation.

Double Straight Cross

This stitch has two distinct crosses: a 2x2 diagonal cross sitting on top of a 4x4 upright cross. You will deal with straight and diagonal stitch elements.

Compensation Against a Straight Line

You will notice that subsequent rows of this stitch fit in between previous rows, and horizontal stitch elements from one Double Straight Cross share holes with vertical stitch elements from another Double Straight Cross. Because of this, the upper half of the stitch in one row shares 2 horizontal canvas threads with the bottom half of the stitch in the row above it. This makes compensations against our straight line here quite easy because all you have to do is stitch the bottom half of the stitch and you have achieved your goal.

If you are in the position of having an area filled with this stitch abutting another filled area, you'll get the best coverage by having the top stitch of the compensated unit be either the horizontal (on top edge) or vertical (on sides). I know this breaks the "rule" on the instructions that will follow, but I think it looks better than bare canvas showing along the edges.

Click to continue to Part Four.