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We are back with the second and final installment of Fishy Cushion.

Preparing the Stitching Area

You will recall from the directions from Part 1 of the Fishy Cushion the diagram below of the lines marked on your canvas. We will be adding new Points on the canvas; the numbering will start at Point 8, continuing with the counting sequence from the directions for Part 1. Remember, DO NOT STITCH ON THE BLUE LINES. Leave them blank. Once all the background is finished, the blue lines will be covered with the fake couching braid stitch or with a continental stitch.

• Point 8 is located 18 threads down from Line C and 10 threads to the left of Line E.
    
• Point 9 is located 50 threads down from Line C and 10 threads to the left of
  Line E.
    
• Point 10 is located 16 threads down from Line H and 10 threads to the left
  of Line E.
    
• Point 11 is located 33 threads down from Line C and 17 threads to the right
  of Line F.
    
• Point 12 is located in the center of the area bounded by Lines F, H, B and D.

Each motif has a circle on its chart marking the spot where you are to start your stitching; these charts are located in Steps 4, 5 and 6.

Motif Placement Chart

The Cross Stitch

The first stitch that you will be doing is the Cross Stitch. The stitch sequence shown here is with all of the stitches facing one direction in the row stitched first and then all of the stitches facing in the other direction stitched second. In Taming the Wild Threads it is suggested using this technique when stitching with the ribbon floss to keep the stitches even.

The first step to this Cross Stitch is to stitch a row of Continental Stitches as shown above. Bring your needle up in hole 1 and go down in hole 2. Continue in this manner -- bringing your needle up in the odd numbered holes and down in the even numbered holes. Complete the entire row in this way.

Now go back along this same row in the other direction and cross each stitch as shown on the right. Bring your needle up in the odd numbered holes and down in the even numbered holes.

Two rows of Cross Stitches are shown below; each canvas thread intersection is covered with a cross stitch.

Step 3

The Bargello Wave Stitch

The background stitches are done in Watercolours, using one strand stripped into three ply and recombined, as outlined in the section Taming the Wild Threads. The areas around the sea creatures are done completely in Continental Stitch or Basketweave Stitch. Bargello Wave Stitch is stitched everywhere else, although it does not come right up to any of the shark fins, the shark or the initials and the date. The Bargello Wave Stitch overwhelms the design if it gets too close to the detailed motifs. Work the Bargello Wave Stitch up as far as you can do a complete row, then fill in with the Continental Stitch. Look at the example below for a better understanding of this principle. Remember not to stitch over the blue lines you have marked on your canvas.

Step 4

The Shark Fin

The shark fins are stitched in the silver ribbon floss using the Cross Stitch. The water splashing around each fin is stitched with white Kreinik metallic ribbon, also in Cross Stitch. Please read Taming the Wild Thread for tips on using these threads. Follow the shark fin charts below, noting where to start your stitching by the location on the chart that says “Start stitching here”, which coincides with each of the Points 8, 9, and 10 from the Motif Placement Chart. Also note the color change on the chart indicating which type of thread to use. The green lines indicate the silver ribbon floss, and the red lines indicate the white Kreinik ribbon. Only half of the Cross Stitch is shown in the chart so as not to have the chart too cluttered.

Once again, Jane thought it would be interesting to have one fin swimming in a different direction, so both the left facing and the right facing fins are charted below. Choose whichever you want to put in place at Points 8, 9, and 10. It will be easier to stitch the water first and then the shark fin.

Left Facing Shark Fin

Right Facing Shark Fin

Step 5

The Shark

Stitch the shark using the the silver ribbon floss for the shark’s body in the Cross Stitch and the white Kreinik ribbon for the wave of water also in the Cross Stitch -- just as you did for the shark fins above. Please read Taming the Wild Thread for tips on using these threads. Follow the shark chart below (please note that the chart is printed sideways so as to provide enough room for the complete chart to fit on the page.) Start your stitching at the location on the chart that says “Start stitching here”, which coincides with Point 11 from the Motif Placement Chart. Also note the color change on the chart indicating which type of thread to use. The green lines indicate the silver ribbon floss, and the red lines indicate the white Kreinik ribbon. Only half of the Cross Stitch is shown in the chart so as not to have the chart too cluttered.

The shark’s eye is a French Knot and will be stitched after you finish stitching the entire piece. As before with the shark fins, it will be easier to stitch the white wave first and then the shark’s body.

Step 6

Initials and Date

The bottom section on the right side is the place where you put your initials and the date using the Cross Stitch. I’ve shown Jane’s initials in block letters, then I added a second chart with just the date marked in it for you to add your initials. Use very simple block letters with each letter 5 Cross Stitches wide and 7 Cross Stitches high. Leave 3 canvas threads between the date “20 “and your first initial and between your last initial and the date “00”. Jane used the silver ribbon floss to stitch her initials, but if you want your name and date to stand out more use one of the DMC perle cotton colors.

Step 7

The French Knots

The French Knots are located on the starfish, randomly on its back, and on the octopus and shark for their eyes. Bring your needle up in hole number 1 and pull all of the thread through. Wrap the thread around the tip of the needle once and then plunge the needle back through the canvas in the hole marked 2. Hold the thread with a little tension around the needle’s tip as you pull the needle back through the canvas -- this will keep your French Knot from getting too big and loose. You will be stitching the French Knots on top of the Continental Stitches that you have already completed for the starfish, the octopus and the shark.

Placement of French Knots on Octopus

Placement of French Knot on Shark

Step 8

The Fake Braid Couching

Once all of the sea creatures are stitched, the background finished and the French Knot accents added you are ready to cover the blue lines labeled E, F, G, and H which have not been stitched. These are covered with Fake Braid Couching using the lilac DMC perle cotton and the white Kreinik ribbon.

It does not matter which of the four lines you choose to do first, but complete both vertical (or horizontal lines) at the same time before starting the other pair. Cut about a 40 inch length of the lilac DMC perle cotton. Thread this long length in your needle doubled over so that the needle is in the middle of the long length. Starting at one end of the line, attach the thread carefully to the back so it won't pull free and go up at the outside of your background stitches. Lay the thread (keeping it untwisted) across the line and go down in a hole on the other side of the design at the outside of your background stitches. Tie off this end. You will have two strands of the DMC lilac thread lying on top of the canvas secured only at either side of the design. Now you are ready for the couching step -- or tying down a loose thread with a second thread -- which uses the white Kreinik ribbon.

Cut a long strand (at least a yard) from the spool of the white Kreinik ribbon and thread it in your needle. Fasten the strand on the back side of the canvas at one end of the length of lilac Perle cotton you just laid down. Come up at the outside hole of the design where you came up with the perle cotton. You are going to work from left to right, so turn your canvas on the side to do this for the vertical lines. As the figure below shows, come up in the hole numbered 1, count over three intersections and put your needle down in the hole numbered 2 covering the two strands of lilac perle cotton that was previously laid. Bring your needle up in the hole marked 3 which is vertically below hole number 2. The lilac lines represent the lilac perle cotton and the red lines represent the white Kreinik ribbon. The blue line represents one of the canvas threads that you previously colored. You may need to move the lilac perle cotton aside a little with your needle in order to bring the needle holding the white Kreinik ribbon up through one of the holes or down into a hole.

Look at the row when you are done. It will resemble braid, and should completely cover the blue line on the canvas. Now do the next row. When you have finished the pair, turn the canvas to do the other pair of rows, again working from left to right for each one. The lilac perle cotton will lay on top of the finished couched braid for these two rows.

If the stitcher doesn't like doing Fake Couching Braid, Continental stitches can substituted. To achieve a slightly braided effect, do two continental stitches in a row using the white Kreinik ribbon and then two stitches in a row using the lilac DMC cotton perle. Continue across (or down) the row, stitching two white, then two lilac, then two white stitches until you reach the end of the row. Tie off securely and then do another row going the same direction. Once you finish two horizontal (or vertical rows), go back and stitch the other pair. This time you will be able to skip doing the point where the two rows cross. Just slide your needle under the stitch on the back and keep going.

Step 9

Finishing Your Cushion

Stitch one row of Continental Stitches on all four sides of your design area. This single row of stitches will cover lines A, B, C, and D. The reason for doing this is to provide yourself with a row of secure stitches to sew through when you attach the canvas to the front of the pillow.

Cut away the unstitched canvas around your design to within an inch of the worked piece on all sides. Fold the unstitched canvas margins under and press down with a very warm iron (do not use a steam setting.) You may have to trim the corners and tack them to the back of the stitching in order to make them stay down. Use sewing thread chosen to match the color of the pillow you purchased to attach the canvas to the pillow. Position the needlepoint on top of the pillow and sew them together with the sewing thread, using long stitches that go through the tent stitch margin. Once the needlepoint is firmly attached, add the trim and sew it to the edges where the needlepoint piece and the pillow meet. Now your cushion is finished.

Congratulations, the Fishy Cushion was quite a large piece to undertake! However, if you decide not to tackle the whole project in one large step you may want to stitch a few of the individual designs separately and frame them instead.